3/25/2016  Peter Pry was interviewed by Mark Levin on LevinTV.
Sorry, if you're not a subscriber, you're outta luck.  Go to LevinTV.com, $69 a year.

Discussion detailed a brief history of interruptions, what the OBAMA administration is currently doing (almost nothing for civilians), and what foreign governments are doing. 

Highlights..
The EMP commission was abandoned in 2008.  It's not on Obama's radar.
EMP strike is not the same as a blackout, power equipment and all electronic gear is destroyed.
We could be without grid power from 6 months to several years.
1/2 million people die from accidents, plane crashes, vehicles, industrial, SCADA systems stop (systems that automatically monitor and control everyday stuff), nuclear power reactors meltdown.
If an EMP strike, it could take ALL gear which uses electricity.
A bill is sitting in the senate Homeland Security committee (chaired by Rod Johnson).  It would require hardening our infrastructure.  Cost about $2 billion.

Obama has been silent on the EMP issue, even though North Korea has been orbiting 2 satellites over America for a couple of years, practice runs, and we don't know if they are armed with an EMP weapon, but the trajectory is correct.  Clinton knew North Korea had Nukes, but wouldn't acknowledge it - though his advisors confirmed they were.  Russia and China have been assisting North Korea in Nuking up, testing, etc.

It is suspected Iran may have been armed with Nukes for 13 years, it just hasn't been publicly acknowledged.

We have the capability to shoot down the illegal Korean satellites, but have done nothing.

Hardening involves Faraday cages, put stuff in metal sheds, metal housing.
Have a water/food supply, medical supply, a bug-out location (for friends with one).
A backup generator with lots of fuel, fuel for your car (If it's not effected).

E1 pulse will not penetrate metal, put essential the stuff in metal garbage cans with the lid on.
Electronic medical equipment.  etc.

Dr. Pry has offered to brief the presidential candidates on the EMP threat, Ted Cruz has been the only one who has shown interest.  Obama does not seem to care.  Trump was unfamiliar with it, Santorum & Carson knew about it, Kasich knew about it (did nothing).

Encourage your representatives to join the EMP caucus.  The representatives at the state level have been more receptive than the federal government.   NERC has shown the most resistance to grid hardening.


Book on Amazon called "Blackout Wars".

So I'm at a communications site, watching a telecom company install a new "safe looking" cabinet.... EMP proof.

Quote from: Hoofer on May 17, 2016, 11:23:22 AM
So I'm at a communications site, watching a telecom company install a new "safe looking" cabinet.... EMP proof.

That must be one BIG cabinet.  What good is it if there no power.   

Quote from: walkstall on May 17, 2016, 02:48:05 PM
That must be one BIG cabinet.  What good is it if there no power.   

SSSSHHHHHHH!
Someone is making BIG money off this stuff!
On the "cool side" it's Cienna DWDM gear, if you run out of matches, just cut a fiber and point it at a piece of paper, it'll ignite in no time.  Some of this stuff is pumping out +10db of UV light, so hot and invisible it can blind you in seconds.  Once you cut that fiber, it'll be like a flame-thrower, igniting everything... not good!


The cabinet is a standard 23" relay rack width, 7 foot tall, with 2 huge, safe-like hinges... 1600lbs.  Reminds me of a gun safe.  The guy said he could not open it without a special "key" placed on the side of it - then it just popped open.  I was figuring the contents were practically worthless to begin with, and if I really wanted to open it up, a 4" grinder on the hinges or a band saw would take those exposed hinges off in minutes.

I wanted to ask him how he's gonna open it, when someone puts another rack or cabinet along side of it.... LOL.  Maybe an EMP would magically open it...?  LOL.... someone converted a $1k gun safe, slapped on an "EMP safe" sticker and got $20k for it.   Hmmmm.... a business opportunity.

And that's why everyone, should have basic survival tools. Fire starter, water purification, food stored etc...

Something happens like say a Solar Flare, and suddenly our civilization is back to the steam engine.

You'll be glad you had those things. Believe me, rubbing two sticks together trying to make fire, while it can be done, is neither easy, or fun.

Even if you've got experience at it, it's also not a sure thing.

Improve the odds, always put a bick or zippo in your pocket. Even if you don't smoke. At least that way, you'll know you can start a fire if God forbid we all wind up back in the dark ages, and you need too.

Quote from: daidalos on May 23, 2016, 01:36:36 AM
And that's why everyone, should have basic survival tools. Fire starter, water purification, food stored etc...

Something happens like say a Solar Flare, and suddenly our civilization is back to the steam engine.

You'll be glad you had those things. Believe me, rubbing two sticks together trying to make fire, while it can be done, is neither easy, or fun.

Even if you've got experience at it, it's also not a sure thing.

Improve the odds, always put a bick or zippo in your pocket. Even if you don't smoke. At least that way, you'll know you can start a fire if God forbid we all wind up back in the dark ages, and you need too.

Solar Flare is a greater threat than an EMP weapon.   One lasts for days, the other meer moments.


...working on a home brew forced air, wood burner / water heater....  We lose power so often, and the batteries won't last forever, it makes sense, back to wood or coal for heat.

Quote from: Hoofer on May 23, 2016, 08:27:45 AM
Solar Flare is a greater threat than an EMP weapon.   One lasts for days, the other meer moments.


...working on a home brew forced air, wood burner / water heater....  We lose power so often, and the batteries won't last forever, it makes sense, back to wood or coal for heat.

Back in my young pup days on the farm we had a kitchen wood stove that heated our hot water tank for us. 

To this day I still have this as a back up if I need it.  Picked it up over 50 years ago for 10$, it was good a new back then.  I have it stored in my garage if I ever need it again.

I recently ordered a HF  HAM radio... to go into an EMP proof box I'm building.  It'll have batteries, 2 HAM band  transcievers, 1 SW radio, a couple of portable wire antennas, lights, battery booster, headset, foot switch, pocket band plan chart.

My biggest problem is keeping it charged while isolated.  Maybe an isolation transformer in an inside container, attached to the wall of the box?

Ultimately I see an faraday cage inside a metal box - independent internal & external shielding - it's that pesky box penetration with a conductive wire that's bugging me.

The big EMP proof safe had 3/4" pipes sticking out of it, about 6" long - I couldn't get a look inside to see if they went into another isolation chamber.  It also had perforated panels on the top & bottom of the back for air flow, small holes, which looked like the air entered a second chamber for further electrical isolation?

Really need to find out what kind of metal they used, if it's ferrous or not...

Quote from: Hoofer on May 28, 2016, 05:45:01 PM
I recently ordered a HF  HAM radio... to go into an EMP proof box I'm building.  It'll have batteries, 2 HAM band  transcievers, 1 SW radio, a couple of portable wire antennas, lights, battery booster, headset, foot switch, pocket band plan chart.

My biggest problem is keeping it charged while isolated.  Maybe an isolation transformer in an inside container, attached to the wall of the box?

Ultimately I see an faraday cage inside a metal box - independent internal & external shielding - it's that pesky box penetration with a conductive wire that's bugging me.

The big EMP proof safe had 3/4" pipes sticking out of it, about 6" long - I couldn't get a look inside to see if they went into another isolation chamber.  It also had perforated panels on the top & bottom of the back for air flow, small holes, which looked like the air entered a second chamber for further electrical isolation?

Really need to find out what kind of metal they used, if it's ferrous or not...

You may already be aware of this, just forgot, but I'll post it for those that don't.

You could pick up some dry charge FORK LIFT/GOLF CART/L-16 OR T-102 or 205 TYPE lead acid BATTERIES.

But the point is, they come fully dry charged, will keep for centuries till you need them, then you crack the electrolyte and fill em up. (Military surplus has them)
They cost a bit more, but shipping is cheaper and you can get the acid locally at any auto parts store.
I'm partial to the Trojan L-16 G or H model around $300.0 each give or take, or by the pallet 20 or 30 bucks less per battery.

You might even look into equalizing brand new batteries, dump the acid, rinse thoroughly and refill with water, place back on a forced charge (equalize charge with high wattage solar array if possible) to displace any acid left, add baking soda, continue charging for a day regardless, dump again, rinse again and charge again, drain and dry them out in the sun.
They should keep several years, assuming you purged all acid from the lead, but look for white scaling in a few months, there may be some residual acid, but the upside is it would only be surface crusting and shouldn't do much damage.
It's the acid deep in the substrate that you want out completely and that's why new only, because old batteries will retain some acid regardless.

Quote from: Solar on May 28, 2016, 07:47:31 PM
You may already be aware of this, just forgot, but I'll post it for those that don't.

You could pick up some dry charge FORK LIFT/GOLF CART/L-16 OR T-102 or 205 TYPE lead acid BATTERIES.

But the point is, they come fully dry charged, will keep for centuries till you need them, then you crack the electrolyte and fill em up. (Military surplus has them)
They cost a bit more, but shipping is cheaper and you can get the acid locally at any auto parts store.
I'm partial to the Trojan L-16 G or H model around $300.0 each give or take, or by the pallet 20 or 30 bucks less per battery.

You might even look into equalizing brand new batteries, dump the acid, rinse thoroughly and refill with water, place back on a forced charge (equalize charge with high wattage solar array if possible) to displace any acid left, add baking soda, continue charging for a day regardless, dump again, rinse again and charge again, drain and dry them out in the sun.
They should keep several years, assuming you purged all acid from the lead, but look for white scaling in a few months, there may be some residual acid, but the upside is it would only be surface crusting and shouldn't do much damage.
It's the acid deep in the substrate that you want out completely and that's why new only, because old batteries will retain some acid regardless.

That is a really, really good idea!  Even a small 100ah set on standby is a great idea.

Quote from: Hoofer on May 29, 2016, 09:28:40 AM
That is a really, really good idea!  Even a small 100ah set on standby is a great idea.

Your best bet might be a local auto parts chain store for a dry battery, the dealers are always willing to keep their biggest buyers  happy, even if it's a small order for something they normally don't do.
I know of some motor cycle shops that carry dry batteries because of so many different sizes, they don't want them on the shelf dying.

Quote from: Solar on May 29, 2016, 09:35:51 AM
Your best bet might be a local auto parts chain store for a dry battery, the dealers are always willing to keep their biggest buyers  happy, even if it's a small order for something they normally don't do.
I know of some motor cycle shops that carry dry batteries because of so many different sizes, they don't want them on the shelf dying.

Check me on this, it's been decades since I saw a guy filling a battery with Acid.

When the battery is filled, at that moment, do they have a full / near-full / partial / minimal charge?
About all I remember is getting a 6 volt tractor battery, the guy filled it, we put it on the tractor and it started right up.

Quote from: Hoofer on May 30, 2016, 07:57:22 AM
Check me on this, it's been decades since I saw a guy filling a battery with Acid.

When the battery is filled, at that moment, do they have a full / near-full / partial / minimal charge?
About all I remember is getting a 6 volt tractor battery, the guy filled it, we put it on the tractor and it started right up.

Initially you just want about a quarter to half " max above and covering the cells, once fully charged you can add water to a half " below the top and no more.
When a battery is dead, most people think it's dry and low on water because the plates are exposed, but what happens is the acid is absorbed by the lead, and displacement of the water drops considerably, so always force charge/equalize the battery before adding water, and buy a hydrometer, about $15.0 for a good glass one.(Red Yellow Green float, but even new batteries will be barely in the green, norm. You can make a battery hotter by adding more acid and raising the green status, but this shortens the life of the battery, as well, you can dilute the acid and extend battery life, OK for long term batteries that sit on tractors or seasonal equipment.

Oh, and a good quality solar panel is an excellent way to force charge a battery, just make sure the open circuit output of the panel is 21 VDC or higher to a max of 26VDC.
Yes, you can push 26VDC into a 12 VDC lead acid battery initially, but drop the amperage charge as the battery approaches 70% of charge (This is a practice for dead batteries).
Once it hits 15.6v, drop off the charge to a slow trickle charge of 12.6 VDC + milliamps to maintain charge.

But to be more precise in answering your question, the battery should reflect that of a new off the shelf battery as to acid level, so just pop a cap and peak in, to compare.
Oh, and always avoid maintenance free crap, there's no such thing, just another excuse to disguise inferior products.
Until technology changes, the heavier the battery the better, more lead means more stored energy.
True deep cycle, or nothing less than trolling motor batteries is what I recommend.
Ignore CCA, that's a starting motor battery, meaning it's designed to give up the majority of it's energy immediately, as opposed to deep cycle.
Oh, note for long life. Never take a battery below 70% of charge, beyond that is considered a cycle, meaning in battery speak, that was a dead battery.
Battery life is based on cycles, which you can look up on the web per manufacturer, good quality batteries are good for one hundred cycles and more.
So if you want more than 7 years out of a battery, keep it charged, also the more batteries in a bank, the longer life over all, assuming you keep it above 70%.
I've had customers get nearly 20 years out of Trojan L-16 batteries (normal 7 to 10 years max) because they never once cycled the bank.

Hope that helps...

EMP Commission report links

The Executive Report (easy read, describes the nature of an EMP)
http://empcommission.org/docs/empc_exec_rpt.pdf

Infrastructure Report.
http://empcommission.org/docs/A2473-EMP_Commission-7MB.pdf

Actual case studies of an electrical pulse (lightning) and as you'd expect, we're kinda vulnerable.

An EMP weapon's damage is immediate, all the resulting damages stem from there.
A Solar EMP / flare energy can engulf us for DAYS, energizing every wire, conductor, steel, copper; sort of like we're on the secondary side of an air-gap transformer.  Think of your house burning down because of the wiring in the walls.  Everything that can conduct electricity, becomes electrically energized in a split second.
Lights become flash bulbs - heck the wiring in your house is gonna flash & vaporize.

Remember petting the cat and getting a little blue arc of static discharge?  Yeah, if kitty wants to rub up against you, be prepared, use a hot-stick... LOL.  Really, a solar flare could energize everything, touching anything that can be electrically charged could be lethal.  A solar flare would be continually charging -everything-...

Here's another aspect.   Those guys who work on LIVE High Tension Power Lines?  A Helicopter gets close, and they EQUALIZE the charge between the Helicopter and the power line, then they can safely get onto the power line.   If Kitty has a big charge of electrons a positive (+) charge, and you're minus a few billion (-) charge, those little electrons are gonna want to jump to YOU and even up the electrical charge between you and kitty.

If you're carrying a big electrical charge, and encounter a well grounded, non-charged element, electrons leave your body rapidly upon contact (maybe your life too).  Imagine a solar flare lasting a week ... everything that is charged up, will be discharged - just a matter of how fast it happens.  Yup, it sucks to think about it.

Fascinating information. Thanks for posting it.

I occurs to me that many people who don't have the good things you describe above will simply try to take it from those who do - and so ample ammunition and security personnel will be essential to any post-EMP scenario.

I have a neighbor who thinks that the Walking Dead T.V. series is really a synonym for a post-EMP world in which those who are not aligned with provisioned government forces or self-sufficient well-defended enclaves will become essentially migrating hoards of people are already dead but don't know it. 

Likely the government would go around confiscating and appropriating anything that they wanted on pretense of "martial law" and would become the apex predator in everyday life.  In reality anyone who was armed and part of a functional network would be part of an apex predatory system but the government would (as always) consider the needs of its servants and functionaries as paramount and try to run roughshod over anyone and everyone they encountered who did not bow down and render obeisance to them.