Okay I'm down to the studs and I roughed in the plumbing with Pex and the Shower base is installed and hooked to the plumbing with no leaks. My question is:

How do I butt cement boards to a popcorn ceiling. I know the joints need to be taped with the fiberglass mesh tape but what do I do where the popcorn ceiling and the the cement wall boards meet.....?

Thanks in advance.

Not sure I understand, but if I'm not mistaken, you need to remove all the sheet rock above the shower. Again, I don't know your building codes, but you may need to replace it with Green Board first.
If it's green board already, just scrape in off and screw into the studs.
Pics would be good.

Quote from: Solar on November 27, 2019, 08:43:55 AM
Not sure I understand, but if I'm not mistaken, you need to remove all the sheet rock above the shower. Again, I don't know your building codes, but you may need to replace it with Green Board first.
If it's green board already, just scrape in off and screw into the studs.
Pics would be good.

I figured it out. I have popcorn ceilings in my bathroom. I'm going trim 2 inches off the edges of the popcorn ceiling, butt the backer board up to the ceiling sheetrock, seal it than put crown molding up to cover up the 2 inches I scraped off the edges of the popcorn ceiling.

I'm I making any sense or did I lose you.....

Quote from: Bronx on November 27, 2019, 11:31:47 AM
I figured it out. I have popcorn ceilings in my bathroom. I'm going trim 2 inches off the edges of the popcorn ceiling, butt the backer board up to the ceiling sheetrock, seal it than put crown molding up to cover up the 2 inches I scraped off the edges of the popcorn ceiling.

I'm I making any sense or did I lose you.....

Pics if you can. I have no idea what the project looks like.

Popcorn ceiling was the worse invention EVER!!!!!
Usually after 25 yrs or so you are doomed.
I've seen it just fall off ceilings.

+1 to this. I would completely remove the popcorn ceiling first and paint the drywall before anything else.  there are a lot of how-to's on line to show how to do this correctly.  NOTE: If your popcorn ceiling was installed before 1979 have it checked for asbestos before doing ANY removal.

Steve

I did Sheetrock back in the day, Popcorn was a contractors way of hiding bad construction. Be it bad taping of warped trusses, popcorn hid it all.

Quote from: Josey on December 29, 2019, 10:51:31 AM
Popcorn ceiling was the worse invention EVER!!!!!
Usually after 25 yrs or so you are doomed.
I've seen it just fall off ceilings.

I hope you sprayed it with a little water first?

Quote from: Solar on November 27, 2019, 08:43:55 AM
Not sure I understand, but if I'm not mistaken, you need to remove all the sheet rock above the shower. Again, I don't know your building codes, but you may need to replace it with Green Board first.
If it's green board already, just scrape in off and screw into the studs.
Pics would be good.

Green board I water resistant but it still absorbs water. Take it from an old pro. Dura-rock is the best way to go in a bathroom. It doesn't deteriorate when it get wet and sloughs water. Green board will hold water like a sponge.

Quote from: Bronx on November 27, 2019, 07:51:15 AM
Okay I'm down to the studs and I roughed in the plumbing with Pex and the Shower base is installed and hooked to the plumbing with no leaks. My question is:

How do I butt cement boards to a popcorn ceiling. I know the joints need to be taped with the fiberglass mesh tape but what do I do where the popcorn ceiling and the the cement wall boards meet.....?

Thanks in advance.

popcorn ceilings..............that is so 70's. It is a tough job to marry cement board to regular drywall without leaving a nasty scar, much less try to finish it with tape and mud. Plus they are two different materials subject to their own expansion and contraction. If you are considering using cement board on a ceiling I'd rethink that. If you must, use green board on the ceiling and cement board for anywhere you intend on using ceramic tile. then use a good quality oil-based paint for finishing.
Latex paint is subject to too much moisture and will never completely cure. Oil-based paints for your walls and ceilings that are not covered by ceramic tile.
Oil based paints hold up to moisture better than almost everything else for residential use.
I know, it stinks and you need thinner to cleanup, but it's well worth the investment.
If you want the best, use Benjamin Moore.
These are pointers from a previous owner of a remodeling business...........